Report dated 6 April
Sorry I haven't emailed in a while it's all been pretty crazy. Am now in an internet cafe in north Goa, don't have much time so will make it brief.
Race 6 went really well, and I managed to sail past 4 boats in the last 2 legs and win the race! Race 7 was all about the battle for 2nd and 3rd - I cam 5th in that race, but managed to slow Nick Craig down enough that he came 4th and I had the silver! So I ended up 2nd and very very pleased about it. Just one more place to gain for next time. The celebrations were.....extreme.
Anyway, I fly into Auckland on Singapore Air on Wednesday 9 April, arriving 10 or 10.30 and hopefully without SARS. Look forward to seeing you all soon and thanks again for all the brilliant support. I will thank everyone properly when I get home.
Report dated 2 April
It was a long hot day on the water yesterday, with two races in lighter winds and flatter seas than we have had so far. We were out there for six and a half hours and in that heat it was no joke.
Anyway, the first race got underway and I managed to have a good start and find the first windshift to be 4th at the first mark. My downwind speed continues to improve as I get more used to this place and I was second behind Nintin at the bottom mark. Anyway, the race went on with the top few positions swapping around and with one leg to go I took a gamble in the hopes of winning the race and went out to one side of the course - unfortunately it didn't pay but I was able to hang in there for 4th which is still great. The light-weather flier Rudiger Prinz of Germany came in 2nd, and Paul Rhodes was 3rd with Nick Craig 5th.
The second race of yesterday was similar, with the same people in the leading bunch (Nintin, Nick Craig, me and Paul Rhodes). I began the final upwind leg to the finish in 4th, with Nintin 1st, Paul 2nd and Nick 3rd. Rob Coutts was close behind me with Greg Wilcox behind him. Most of the leg was very close racing with noone daring to split off and risk losing their position. However with about 200m to go I had a feeling that there would be a lefthand shift just before the finish and split out to that side while the other 3 leading boats continued up the middle of the track. My hunch paid off and I snuck in for 2nd. Nintin won again, Paul was 3rd and Nick 4th.
So, after 5 races (2 to go) I am lying 3rd, only 2 points behind Nick Craig after beating him twice yesterday, and 7 points ahead of Paul Rhodes who has sailed really well to get back up to 4th overall after his disastrous OCS in Race 1. Greg is 1 point behind Paul in 5th, and Joe is 7th after not having the best day yesterday. So it's pretty close, but one more good race should secure a top 3 finish for me, and hopefully I can have a go at taking Nick's spot. But really just want to keep sailing consistently.
Report dated 1 April
Race 3 was sailed yesterday in 15-18 knots, despite what the official report says (8-10) - it was pretty breezy and everyone was pretty tired by the end. Definitely a day for the bigger guys, so I was really happy to finish 4th in this fleet.
At the first mark I was about 10th, and the other kiwis were spread around the fleet as it was a very shifty breeze. For once there was enough breeze to really catch some waves, and I managed to get up to 4th after the first two downwind legs. I got up to 3rd up the next leg, and stayed there until the final leg to the finish when Nick Craig (GBR) passed me. But 4th isn't too bad at all.
Greg Wilcox had a better race to finish 2nd, Paul Rhodes was 5th and Joe Porebski was 6th. Rob Coutts had some gear failure (why couldn't it have happened to his brother?? hahaha just kidding) so was back a bit.
Anyway, after 3 races I'm still 3rd overall but followed very closely by Greg and Joe.
There was some controversy yesterday: Ninitin Mongia apparently hit TWO marks on his way round the course, and pretended not to notice or hear Nick and Greg screaming at him to do his penalty turns. They both protested, and Nick had a very clearcut case with a witness which usually means an almost certain disqualification. However, both protests were inexplicably thrown out when the two Indian jurors claimed to have both seen the incidents and testified that no marks were hit. Nintin is winning very well and sailing brilliantly - so doesn't need to add things like this to his victory. A bit disappointing. Anyway, I'm staying out of all that stuff, and enjoying relative anonymity compared to Greg and Paul - and grateful for it!
Anyway, two races today so will do my best and try to stay consistent.
Report dated 1 April
Well the past week has been good, really just training and generally preparing but we've continued to have a look around Goa and enjoy the experience.
On Sunday we had the "invitation race" for the worlds, which is a practice race that doesn't count but everyone is expected to compete in. It's a chance to see the other competitors, and a lead-in to the opening ceremony etc. I came 4th in that race but that's not really an accurate reflection as a few boats ahead of me pulled out. As always, the worlds fleet is definitely tougher than the pre-worlds with a few more good guys arriving for it. In particular the current European champion Nick Craig from Britain is very good and going fast. And there are a few others.
On Sunday evening the opening ceremony for the 2003 OK Worlds was held in an open air setting, on the lawns of the resort. It was absolutely classic and another example of the Indian's love of pomp and ceremony. The sailors and spectators were all seated before a raised dais at which were seated the governor of goa, some high-ranking military personnel and those officers of the OK Dinghy Association who are here (secretary, president etc). Also there were a whole lot of press there taking photos etc. To one side of the stage there was a military brass/pipe band in full regalia. There were speeches etc, the band played and then we were all ushered to the lawn for cucumber sandwhiches and tea, and a chance to meet the important Indians. Classic stuff.
Anyway, on to the important news. Yesterday were races 1 & 2 of the worlds, and there were plenty of nerves with lots of people over early on the starts leading to "general recalls" and re-starts etc etc. The usual stuff in an important regatta. Anyway race 1 eventually got underway in moderate but shifty sea breezes. Once again Nitin Mongia (India) led the whole way to take the race. Nick Craig chased hard but couldn't crack Nitin's lead, and finished second. Paul Rhodes (NZL) sailed well to come third, but later found that he had been deemed OCS, or over early on the start and was disqualified which is a gutting start to the worlds for Paul who as current world No 2 came here with justifiably high hopes of a top result. I managed to cross the line 4th and so ended up 3rd due to Paul's OCS, which I was pleased about since I often start regattas a bit slowly. Joe Porebski was 5th, and Greg Wilcox 8th. I think Rob Coutts came in 4th or 6th but not sure.
Race 2 started in light conditions which built to the usual moderate breeze during the race. Nitin won again, with Nick Craig 2nd. Joe sailed well to take 3rd, and I managed to hang in for 4th with Greg 6th, Rob 7th and Paul 9th. After day one I'm lying 3rd overall, Joe is 4th and Greg is 5th equal with Rob and the Australian James McAlistair (I think).
So that's the first day out of the way. We have one race today, two tomorrow, one on Thursday and the final race on Friday. I'll continue to do my best - it's a really tough fleet and there isn't much room for error throughout the top dozen or so, so just a case of not making mistakes. Will keep you all updated. Finally, once again I want to thank all those of you who have been emailing me in support and to let me know what's been happening at home. I'm sorry I haven't been able to send many individual emails, and probably I won't during the worlds as I have found I'm better to just concentrate on the racing. But of course I'll be sure to catch up with all of you separately when I get back.
Report dated 26 March
The last race of the Indian Nationals didn't go so well for me and I cam 6th, so ended up 4th in that regatta. That's a good result but I will be giving it everything to try and get a better result in the Worlds. I am learning a lot about sailing here and am heading out shortly for some training with the other Kiwis so I am sure we can improve a lot this week. Paul Rhodes ended up 2nd in the Nationals, Joe Porebski was 3rd and Greg Wilcox was 5th. We are all very close around the course and only a few points separated us. It will be important to be very consistent in the Worlds.
We had a great dinner 40km along the coast at a restaurant which the Indian champ and his coach took us to. We were given shots of a drink called "Feni" which is a local spirit made from cashew nuts. It tastes like kerosene and almost kills you, so that set the night off very nicely!
Yesterday we took advantage of the break and took a taxi 80km south-east to the highest waterfall in India, called Dudsagar Falls - they are quite spectacular and the railway line (built by the British in Raj days) runs across the falls a long way up. We swam in the huge pool at the bottom, and it was quite cold - a real treat after the constant heat. Also we saw lots of monkeys on the walk up to the falls which were pretty funny. On the way back we stopped at Old Goa, which is a world heritage site as it has a couple of huge churches built hundreds of years ago by the Portuguese. They were amazing and a big deal here as Goa is full of devout Catholics who are all make it very clear what their religion is.
Last night was very special as we ate at an air-conditioned restaurant which seemed amazingly upmarket after the places we have been eating! The Germans complained that they were cold though so I guess you can't make everyone happy.
Report dated 24 March
Well is has been an interesting few days of sailing, and we have certianly learnt a few things about the local conditions - it was a good move coming here early and not just turning up for the worlds as it has taken a lot of time on the water to start hitting the pace. Our results haven't changed much, as everyone is improving together but we will up the ante once the worlds start.
Races 3 & 4 were once again sailed in a sea breeze which blows here every day and builds throughout the afternoon. I managed another 2nd in race 3, with Paul Rhodes, Joe Porebski and Greg Wilcox 3rd 4th and 5th. In race 5 Paul was 2nd, Joe was 3rd and I was 4th. Once again the Indian Nintin Mongia won both races.
Yesterday we had races 5 & 6 - the same conditions again. I didn't go so well yesterday and in both races had bad first legs and had to play catch-up for the rest of each race. I managed a 5th and a 4th which is enough to keep me in 3rd overall which is pretty good in this fleet. Paul had two 2nds, Greg had a 4th and a Did-Not-Finish, and Joe had a 3rd and a 1st! Yes, someone finally managed to beat the Indian after he won five races in a row which is by far the most races won in a single regatta by anyone in this fleet for as long as any of us can remember.
Apart from that, I don't have too much to report as it has just been regatta routine for the last few days. We have continued to go out to funny little places for dinner every night and see more of the surrounding town which is a strange mix of very wealthy and very poor. Overlooking the sea there are some huge houses which are more like palaces really which we can see when we are sailing out to the race course. But everything further inland is in stark contrast - dillapidated houses and the ever-present shacks and lean-to shelters. But we're getting used to all that and enjoying ourselves. The racing is going well, but the heat/humidity makes it very difficult, which is another reason why it has been so important to get here early and get acclimatised. Yesterday for the first time I didn't feel dizzy throughout the second race, so maybe am starting to get used to it. The Germans arrived yesterday and found the heat so unbearable that they didn't even go sailing, so it takes time to get used to and there are certainly a few lessons to be learnt about sailing in a place like this. For example we all brought lycra rash shirts thinking they keep you cool, but are now investing in white long-sleeved t-shirts which are clearly the best thing to wear. The warm dirty water softens your skin so my arms have cuts and grazes, and the sun is merciless. And anything tight is really uncomfortable. Anyway, by the time the worlds start we will be as prepared as possible and hopefully a kiwi (preferably me) will win.
Report dated 22 March
Well it has been an interesting couple of days. Before writing about that, I want to thank all of you who have sent me those great emails of encouragement and just to let me know you haven't forgotten me. I've just read them all and I'm really grateful, so keep them coming.
Yesterday I will name Beauracracy Day - we left the resort at 8.30am, with an army major as our support person, and went to the shipping port to try and get our boats released. If any of you have ever been frustrated by "red tape" in New Zealand, don't bother trying to ship something to India. Our goal: to sign for our boats, have the container inspected and make sure it gets released from the port. 7 hours, 30 forms and about 20 different offices (complete with full explanations, more forms and more officials) later, we were finally able to leave. Nothing happens here without triplicate forms stamped and signed. Stamps are like gold - it doesn't matter what is on them, any stamp will do. But if your papers don't have stamps on them, expect more delays. Also, copies of all paper you possess are required. We provided copies of everything relating to this trip, right down to emails! Basically they kept asking for "papers" so we'd just hand them something (didn't matter what), get it stamped and signed by about 10 people, and it would then get filed in a cupboard somewhere. We have realised that the real reason for this system is that it creates jobs. There is a man who carries a particular kind of form from one office to another - that's his job. Another guy stamps forms - but only some forms. And so it goes on. All you can do is laugh really, and eventually with much time and lots of rupees handed over, you will get what you want. We have found ourselves starting to relax and become pretty cruisy about things as it is the only way to be here. Except for sailing of course - nothing cruisy about our approach to that. Anyway, the truck finally departed the port with our container on the back, and by 8.30 last night it still hadn't arrived. The driver got tired apparently so parked and went to sleep! The truck arrived this morning and we unpacked our boats, with the help of a whole lot of soldiers who are here getting ordered about by their superiors and by us as their sole function is to help the sailors. It's great, we have people to pull our boats in and out, take our trolleys away for us and have them waiting when we get in from sailing!
Once we had unpacked the boats, we rigged up and then attended the opening ceremony for the Indian Nationals. We were all seated, and at the front behind a table were two colonels and a major-general, who are responsible for running the contest. The press were present, and it was all very official. The major-general gave a long speech and it was interesting to learn how the whole thing is structured. The Indian OK team have all be recruited into the Indian army for one purpose - to sail OKs. The first 10 years of their service is to be spent full-time yachting with the goal of winning world titles and also Olympic titles in Lasers. India has decided it wants to be good at sailing, and it is using the Army to do it. So we are racing guys who have been training full time for this event for at least the past year - though it may well be the last few years. These people do not intend to lose. They have a war tent set up and it is being conducted like a military operation. The colonel and major in charge are both normally posted in Kashmir and are genuine battle-hardened soldiers. I've had some really interesting discussions with them about all the things going on in this part of the world, and interesting to get the points of view of some real soldiers who have been in the thick of things - as opposed to us kiwis who really can't comprehend anything other than peace. Anyway, it will be really interesting to see how the military approach to yachting campaigns works and we are hoping that if we win the worlds we won't get shot! Hahaha. They are actually treating us really well; the kiwi team are being treated like rock stars - as we have the World No1 and No2 etc. We did a press conference after the opening ceremony!
Anyway, eventually it was time to head out for the first of two scheduled races, due to start at 2pm. The first thing to realise about this place is this: it is hot. After 5 minutes in my hiking pants and rash top I was absolutely cooking - the only solution is to drink a lot of water. I went through 3 litres in 3 hours of sailing today, which keeps you conscious at least but it isn't too comfortable!
The wind was a nice sea breeze, though it is really strange to sail here for a number of reasons. Firstly, the air is so hot that what looks like a lot of wind is actually quite soft when it hits your sails - I sailed into a couple of gusts today, hiked out hard to keep the boat flat and almost tipped it over on top of myself! The water is also very warm which makes the boat behave strangely as the water's density and the way the waves work is different. It is going to take a little while to figure out the best body positions and steering technique to use (by the way, if this is boring the hell our of you non-yachties, please forgive me. There are quiet a few yachties on the list who I thought might find all this stuff interesting and useful in case they ever sail here). The other thing about the water is, it's brown and it doesn't smell too healthy. So getting splashed in the face by waves is pretty unpleasant! Finally, there is a huge amount of tide and the chart they provided us seems completely unrelated to what is actually happening out there.
Anyway, I didn't do too badly today given all of the above, and managed to come 2nd in both races. The concerning thing is that it was an Indian who won them both. The Indians are polished and sailing well, and their champion is very hard to beat. Still, it was only our first day in these conditions and the guy only beat me by a few seconds in each race. There are lots of little things for me to work on and I'm sure I can improve enough to take him - anyway will do my best.
[subsequent report]
I have realised that I forgot to let you know how the other kiwis got on yesterday. In the first race, Greg Wilcox came 3rd, and Paul Rhodes came 4th. Joe Porebski came a few places back, not sure but he did okay.
In the second race Joe Porebski came 3rd after leading for most of the race and Greg came 4th. Paul was 5th after finding out that picking the wrong side of the course on a beat is VERY costly - there was quite a big gap from the first 4 back to the next boat. Picking the wrong side can happen to anyone so we'll have to take careful note of how the wind & tide work out there.
I was 2nd in both races and the Indian Nintin Mongia won them both. Interestingly, it turns out he is the only non-soldier in their team which I didn't realise yesterday - he's a stock broker from Mumbai (Bombay) so even more ruthless! haha he is sailing really well so we'll have to work hard to beat him.
Report dated 19 March
Well this is my third day in India, so I thought I'd let you all know how I'm getting on.
Hard to compare this place to home - it is just an utterly different world.
The trip here took approx 2 days, and we had stops in Singapore, Delhi and Mumbai (Bombay) before getting here. Flying into Mumbai (was dark when we flew into Delhi) was my first real sighting of India - we flew in over the slums by the airport and I was pretty stunned by the conditions people can exist in. It was immediately obvious that if you live in the slums of Mumbai, there is no hope of ever escaping to the kind of life that we all enjoy. There were thousands upon thousands of shacks (plastic sheets, planks, bits of corrugated iron) which cover a huge area and are so tightly packed together that they are all touching. Many are built on top of others. There are a few narrow dirt streets which are filled with people. Everything is the same colour - grey/brown. A sobering first glimpse of India. Mumbai Airport is a huge concrete hulk, clearly once very modern and smart but now a huge half-empty place, with the concrete crumbling, the odd window missing and everything looking old and dilapidated. Airport security staff (army) drive around in ancient old cars which wouldn't get a warrant here - they carry big guns and noone messes with them. I read an article on the plane about the police brutality and corruption that is getting out of control here at the moment - my conclusion is, we won't be going to the police if anything goes wrong.
After 6 hours at Mumbai we flew to Goa. The drive from Goa Airport to our resort was another eye-opener. The entire 30 min taxi ride (in a rickety little van) consisted of driving along narrow winding streets, some sealed, past an endless stream of people and behind them more shacks which you wouldn't keep animals in at home. I'm not being arrogant - that is the only way I can think of to describe it. Anyway, about halfway through the rise I realised that the only way to deal with this place is not to compare it to home but just accept it for what it is. But it does make you realise how incredibly lucky everyone, bar none, in NZ is in comparisan with most of the population here. South Auckland is like Remuera in comparisan with some of the places I've seen in only 3 days here, and that's being unfairly harsh on South Auckland. The taxi drive was also insanely dangerous - everyone drives like a maniac and there don't seem to be any rules. Was pretty funny and no point whatsoever worrying about it - you would not want to walk!
Anyway, we eventually arrived at our resort. It is a very nice place, surrounded by huge walls and armed guards. There is a clean pool, and a whole selection of restaurants, bars, shops and things for us to visit. It isn't huge but they cram a lot into small spaces here. By Indian standards it is an enormous piece of land. Our rooms are much like a standard western motel room, the real difference being that we are basically treated like nobles, and waited on hand and foot. Anything you want here will be done for you - you basically don't need to do anything for yourself if you don't want to which is pretty weird and actually you get a bit sick of being constantly pestered! But they are really looking after us well here and are very nice. Money rules in India, and if you have it, you're pretty powerful because 99% of the population haven't got any as far as I can tell.
During the day for the last two days we have hired taxis for the day and been taken on tours of Goa. Last night our taxi driver took us to a restaurant which has one of the best reputations in Goa - it is called "Goan Delicacy" (the driver didn't come in, he waited in his van for 3 hours). It is right on the water front, and we had a great time. But if you have an image of a "restaurant" in your mind, think again. To get there we drove through an impossibly narrow dirt street, past houses, shacks, trees and many twists and turns until we arrived at Goan Delicacy - a little enclosure built along the top of a sea wall, with a big tarpaulin stretched over the whole thing and a cook at one end. Anyway, we got stuck in and had starters, 3 curries, naan breads etc and many Kingfishers (beers), all for a whopping bill of around $10 each. A really funny night - by this stage we'd stopped worrying about the surroundings as everything here is like that, and really enjoyed ourselves. We met an English couple who have lived here for a year and they reckon the food at Goan Delicacy doesn't make you sick so that's a bonus!
This morning we went to a big market at Adjuna Beach - which was interesting, and we bought some nice things, but it was also pretty disturbing. I saw my first beggars today, and it was truly heartbreaking. Just after I got out of the taxi, a little girl who couldn't have been more than 5 tugged at my sleeve and pointed to her mouth. She was a sweet looking wee girl, but alone, filthy, barefoot and literally dressed in rags. There were hundreds of them and in the end you just have to walk away or get mobbed. Some of the guys I was with had travelled a lot and were pretty hardened to it, but I have to say it was pretty upsetting. Anyway, we got on with it and bought a few things, bartered with some people but you feel pretty mean beating some guy down from NZ$5-2 for something which must have taken someone days to make.
Today we can't go sailing since our container hasn't arrived yet, and in about an hour we're off to the shipping port to "sign some papers" to get it released. Am guessing this will involve some fairly hefty bribes. Anyway, it looks like we'll get the container with our boats in it tomorrow, and can go sailing which will be a relief. Am looking forward to the racing - the Indian nationals start on the 21st so we need to get ready for that. The local boats are on the beach here, and they don't look much good to us so hopefully we'll make short work of them. The real competition will be with some of the Europeans.
Well, better go, but will report again soon. All this war and 'killer flu' business is a bit concerning - we're not really sure what's happening with this flu but we have a night in Singapore on the way home so if it gets too dangerous to go there please let me know! We've heard that it's doing a bit of damage there but don't know how accurate the reports are.